1) Things every airsoft should know.
2) Help, my gun stopped shooting! What is wrong?
3) Tightbore Install Guide.
4) Basic Maintenance Guide
5) Disassembly Guides.
6) AEG Barrel Lengths
7) General Airsoft Terms and Definitions
8) Gearbox/Upgrade Guide
1) Never use .12g bb's in your gun.
They are made of cheap, lightweight plastic that can break and shatter into your gearbox, hop up, and barrel and cause major problems. Plus, they are highly inaccurate.
2) Never dry fire your gun for long periods.
Dry firing adds extra stress on the gearbox and can cause the parts in the gun to break much faster and easier. So don't try fire it just to show off or anything, especially in full auto.
3) Always reset your spring after every game.
To reset your spring: remove your magazine from your gun, switch to semi-auto and fire 3-4 shots. This will make sure all the bbs are out of the barrel and hop up, as well as making sure that your spring is not compressed as a compresses spring can cause your fps to drop if left for long periods. This is the only time I dry fire my gun.
4) Never use WD-40 to lube your gun.
WD-40 contains chemicals that will eat away at your rubber parts like your o-rings and hop up and even plastic parts. Over time, your gun will fail because of it. Always use 100% silicon oil to lubricate rubber parts.
5) Always call your hits.
Whenever you are shot and you are out, loudly yell "HIT!" and put your hands in the air and walk off the field to the safe area. My and my friends have "death rags" which are simply red cloths or rags that we put on our head to signify we are out.
6) Do not buy cheap!
I have said this many times in many places, but I will say it again. Airsoft is not a cheap sport, If you do not have money to spend on it, don't get into it. Cheaper doesn't mean better when it comes to airsoft. In many cases, if something is more expensive than something else, it is most likely better.
I will update this as I think of more.
• Check your fuse
This is the most common reason that makes a gun stopp shooting! Most fuses are located near the connector were you connect the battery. If it is blown it will have a smokey look and the filament will be broken in half. If you need a replacement make sure to use 20amp cylindrical fuses. You can buy a pack of 5 at your local hardware store for only a few bucks.
• Check to see your battery is fully charged
Many people simply forget to plug in a charged battery. Also try using another charged battery and see if that solves the problem.
• Check Connections
Check places were there are connections. Most commonly the motor, or close to were the connector is and make sure they securely connected.
•Check your wires
Check all you wiring and make sure it is not torn. If it is torn, make sure it is not touching anything metal(this can cause a fuse to blow). Also be sure to wrap the torn area in electrical tape to prevent further tearing and short circuiting.
• Check to see that your motor is reaching the gears
If you hear the motor spin, but nothing is firing, check to make sure your motor is reaching the gears by turning the adjustment knob on the motor plate under the grip. If it turns and makes a screeching noise, it is to low and needs to be raised. If you here a deep grind, it is to high and needs to be lowered.
• Check hop-up and barrel
Check to make sure your hop-up is still in good shape and not turned up to high and make sure your inner barrel is clean. A torn hop up can cause misfires and jams.
• Check your internals
A lot of times, after a recent upgrade, there can pose many problems in the gearbox such as to many shims, faulty wiring inside or a misalignment of the gears.(Only do this as a last resort. If your not comfortable opening a gearbox, dont risk it and send it to a professional.) Problems in the gearbox can occur at anytime though and not just after an upgrade. Overtime, the gearbox will simply start to deteriorate and needs to be maintenanced.
Installing a tightbore barrel is the cheapest and easiest way to boost accuracy, range and FPS all in one. Almost every gun requires different steps to actually get to the hop up and install the new barrel. I am going to just post links to the guide instead of posting them here as most of them are long and require lots of pictures.
Basic Maintenance is important to keeping your gun performing to the best of it's ability. I'm not going to right out a full guide when this one does it better than I could explain.
Knowing the length of the inner barrel is important so you can buy the correct length upgrade barrel.
Barrel Length - AEG
110mm - MP5K
141mm - MP5-PDW
182mm - MP7A1
195mm - UMP/UMG
208mm - G3 SAS
229mm - MP5A4, MP5A5, MP5SD5, MP5SD6, AK-47 Beta Spetsnaz
247mm - G36C, P90, CAR-15, SIG 552
280mm - CA SAR M41 FS Offizier, CA M15A4 CQB
285mm - MC-51
300mm - M1A1 Thompson, TM M733, G&P M4A1 Commando
304mm - G&G FS51 Fixed Stock
355mm - G36K
363mm - M4A1 (CA M15A4 Carbines), SR-16, S-System, TM XM177-E2, SCAR, G36K, M249 Para
420mm - SOC-16, CA M14 Scout
422mm - M249 (non-para)
429mm - CA 33E
455mm - AK-47, AK-47S, AK-74M
463mm - SLR-105, RK-103
469mm - G3 SG1, CA SAR Taktik
472mm - FAMAS F1, FAMAS SV
475mm - VFC MK43 Mod 0
495mm - G36E
500mm - M14
509mm - M16A1VN, M16A2, AUG
510mm - L85
534mm - SIG 550
550mm - M16A2 (Long), M16VN (Long), AUG (Long), King Arms FN FAL
590mm - TM PSG-1
650mm - TM PSG-1 (Long)
Another great and simple guide over at Evike.com Forums
A very important and thorough guide for any person looking to start working with the internals of guns and upgrading their own guns. Again, over at Evike.com.